Milk Paint

Milk paint is a traditional, natural finish that's been used for centuries. It's made from casein (milk protein), lime, and pigment — no solvents, no VOCs, no serious fumes. It creates a flat, chalky look with natural color variation that's impossible to fake with conventional paint. On bare wood it soaks in and bonds naturally. On previously painted or finished surfaces, it may chip and peel in a chippy, antiqued way — which some people love and others don't. Topcoat with wax or oil to protect it and bring out the color. The powder form (mix your own) is more authentic than pre-mixed milk paint products.

Sand to 150 grit. No special prep needed for bare wood. For previously finished surfaces, either strip to bare wood or add a bonding agent to the milk paint mix. Test on a scrap first.

• Mix powder with warm water to a cream consistency. Let sit 5 minutes, mix again.
• Apply with a brush. The first coat will look uneven — that's normal.
• Let dry 1 hour. Apply second coat.
• Sand lightly between coats if a smoother look is desired. Leave unsanded for more texture.
• 2–3 coats for full coverage.
• Topcoat with paste wax or hard wax oil to protect and deepen the color.

• Expecting even, solid coverage like latex paint — milk paint has variation, especially on raw wood.
• Not using a bonding agent on non-porous surfaces — it won't stick.
• Skipping the topcoat — milk paint alone is fragile and marks easily.
• Mixing too far in advance — use within a few hours of mixing, it doesn't keep.